Wednesday, October 12, 2011
Full moon
Imagine walking down a beach in the light of the full moon. Some place where the breeze is soft and warm even in the middle of the night. Holding hands with someone who makes your heart beat a little bit faster. But you don't talk, you just listen to the music - "Moonlight Serenade" - being played by an orchestra somewhere in the distance. Enjoying the moment...
Tuesday, October 11, 2011
Monday's school outfit
The "Monday's school outfit" post is becoming mandatory here on my little bloggywogg. So of course I can't wear jeans to my PR-class. That wouldn't be so interesting to read about, would it?! And why would I want to wear jeans anyway?...This is what I threw on this Monday:
The blouse comes from "Bettie Page Clothing". The belt is H&M, and the skirt I have sewn myself, after a pattern from the 50s.
I hope you all see how precisely I'm imitating the pose the girl on the pattern envelope is showing. I practiced a lot for this...
It's getting cold outside, and then you need a nice coat. Like this one for example! It's vintage, from the 60s, and I bought it very cheaply from my friend Charlotta. It comes from H&M, but I was a bit surprised when I found this tag on the inside of the coat:
Luhta for H&M. And I thought the collaborations between H&M and other designers was something pretty new. Well, well...
The raccoon fur I'm wearing around my neck is made out of real polyester. Fancy, right?! It has a clip on the inside at one of the ends, so it's easy to fasten around the "tail". There was a little note attached to it when I bought it, showing how you should fasten it around your neck. Beside the around-the-neck picture, there was another illustration, showing that you can also wear it around your head...
I'm not so sure about this placement though. I think I'll just stick to wearing it around my neck...
Sunday, October 09, 2011
Ali Mahdavi
The photographer Ali Mahdavi was born in Teheran in Iran, in 1974. Now he lives in Paris, where he studied art at the École Boulle, the École Nationale des Arts Appliqués Duperré, and the École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts.
I love his photos! Whether he photographs a model, an actor, a cat, or a crazy rockstar, he always makes them look good, getting the light to fall on the exact right spot. To me his pictures looks tasty, delicious! If it's glamour you want in a photo, go to Ali Mahdavi!
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| Ali Mahdavi |
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| Ali Mahdavi by Karl Lagerfeld |
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| Tilda Swinton |
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| Ad for Cartier |
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| Dita von Teese |
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| Mr Pearl |
| Dita von Teese in Thierry Mugler for Vanity Fair |
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| Dita von Teese for Cointreau |
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| Suzanne von Aichinger |
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| Betony Vernon |
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| Marcelle Bittar |
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| Marilyn Manson |
I couldn't copy pictures directly from Ali Mahdavi's home page. But there are lots of more photos there! So if I were you, I would follow this link and take a look: http://www.ali-mahdavi.com/
Friday, October 07, 2011
Le Corset
For me, the ultimate piece of lingerie is the corset. This was one of the first things that can be called underwear at all - worn even by (both the men and women) of the ancient Minoan civilization on Crete, around the 27th century BC to the 15th century BC. In those days people wore them, not to get slimmer waists, but for the good postures they gave. Nowadays a lot of people think that the only reason to wear a corset is to make the waist as narrow as possible. Not true! During different times, fashion has looked different, so also the way the body was to look. The corset helped to mould the body into the wanted shape of the times - for example cylindrical, or like an upside down cone.
Then there are the people called "tightlacers". They use the corset to train their waists to get smaller and smaller. A few of these are known through times. Ethel Granger for example. She died in 1950, and was then listed in the Guinness Book of World Records as having the smallest waist on earth - 13 inches (33 cm)!
Then there are the people called "tightlacers". They use the corset to train their waists to get smaller and smaller. A few of these are known through times. Ethel Granger for example. She died in 1950, and was then listed in the Guinness Book of World Records as having the smallest waist on earth - 13 inches (33 cm)!
I can't say I think this looks good - and I don't want to think about what her insides look like! But for her, and a lot of the other tightlacers, it's obviously about something else. Something to strive for...A slim, corseted waist can look great - as long as it's not to slim. At least that's my opinion. If people want to do this, then fine with me. But when I wear a corset, I don't want my waist to go too much out of proportion. I don't wear corsets often at all, but I like wearing them, and my favorite one is a red velvet overbust corset from "What Katie Did". Normally my waist is 25 inches (63 cm). The size of this corset is 22 inches (56 cm), which means that it pulls my waist in 3 inches (7,5 cm), What I love about this corset is that it pulls my whole upper body in, in a way that makes it really comfortable. It feels like - as the elusive Mr Pearl puts it - a "permanent embrace". Here are a few pictures of this lovely corset. Photos by Christine Engström:
As someone who knows how to build up a corset - I have, so far, made two - I know how long it takes, at least if you use steal bones so you have to cut them into the right lengths and file down the edges and blah, blah, blah...Corset makers aren't so profuse as they used to be. But there are a few good ones out there. There's them...And then there's Mr Pearl...Or Mark Pullin as his real name is. He doesn't only know how to make a corset fit his client like a glove - he wears them too! With a waist measurement of 18 inches (46 cm), he's one of the few male tightlacers. He wears a corset 24/7, and only takes it off to bathe.
In creating corsets he has worked with a lot of people, inkluding Dita von Teese, Kylie Minogue, Alexander McQueen, John Galliano, Christian Lacroix, and many more. I guess I don't have to mention that I would be pretty darn delighted if he made one for me too...
"Corsetry is the deepest, most intimate, most enhancing possibility physically and I'm fascinated by this. Corsetry presents endless, almost unobtainable, possibilities, it could always be tighter, more beautiful, longer in the front. The limit is physical - outward appearances are endless." - Mr Pearl
You can find a longer interview with Mr Pearl here.
Thursday, October 06, 2011
The Puzzle Shoe
The Israeli industrial designer Daniela Bekerman has created a shoe that can be transformed in five different ways, by changing the back part on the shoe. In this way you can go from a pair of flat ballerinas to, for instance, a pair of lace ups or Mary Janes in a matter of seconds. They're called "ze o ze", which in hebrew means "this or this". Here's a picture of the different styles the shoe can be transformed into:
As you can see on the picture, there's a narrow "thingy" in front of the heal on the different add ons, that is to be slid into place into the sole of the front piece.
This is obviously good for the environment, since less material is used in making this shoe + the add ons, than it would creating five whole pairs of shoes. When you travel they will also take less space than five pairs would - cause we all know we need several varieties of shoes when we travel! Another good thing is that high heeled shoes make your feet ache. With these you can simply use the high heeled part when mostly needed, and then switch to the flat ballerina heel when your feet starts protesting - they wont take much space in your bag. I really like the way they look too! I wouldn't mind trying them out.
The only thing I'm a bit worried about is how long they will hold together. It feels like the more you use them the softer they're gonna get, and the easier the back part will fall off the front part. It's a good idea. But does it work in reality?
There's also a little promo video about the shoes. You can watch it here.
Tuesday, October 04, 2011
Monday's school outfit
Yet again Monday arrived - what a surprise - and off to the PR-course I went! This time wearing a dark green dress I've made myself. The pattern I used is from 1949, just after Christian Dior had introduced the "New Look" with wider, longer skirts. The fabric is quite heavy, which gives it a nice flow.
The peplum is attached to the belt, and can be removed. Black, transparent gloves from "Cheap Monday".
The diamond shaped hole below the collar is fastened with a hook and eye. But it easily opens up by itself, so I usually ad a brooch there to keep it closed. This is the one I like to chose. I think the dark read stones go well with the dark green of the dress. Brooch is vintage.
On my head I'm wearing the "Dreadful Hat", by Magdalena Kellerman. I earlier wrote about it here.
As I've said before, I'm ok with wearing fur if it's vintage, and the taxidermy animals Magdalena uses when making her hats all died a long time ago! Some might think this hat - and the one I bought at the Vintage Fair, also by Magdalena - are a bit morbid. Well, maybe they are, but I love them!
Sunday, October 02, 2011
Why women should wear stockings
I just found a great article on corsetiere.net about why women should wear stockings instead of pantyhose. It's even written by a man - and the reason he thinks we girls should strut around in these things is far from sexist! The article might be a bit long. But I mean, it's Sunday today! What better things do you have to do than sit down and learn a few things about stockings?!
Pantyhose: A Relic of the 20th Century
It might have been predicted in the thirties, after the introduction of lastex and nylon, that there would be no large-scale reversion by undie-wearers to the fabrics they replaced. But, in the forties, that is what happened, due to war-time production restrictions.
Similarly, it has recently been predicted that “there is no reason to … think that younger women would ever, to any great extent, turn back to girdling and corseting.” (See “Marianne’s Story,” last paragraph.) That surely is consensus opinion. But, as in the thirties, there is a dark cloud on the horizon that could lead to production restrictions: long-term, severe energy shortages. Such restrictions could include the prohibition of nylon-profligate pantyhose. If stockings then became the only form of “nylons” allowed, some mild form of girdling would return, such as control briefs worn with tabs for (detachable) garter straps.
Severe energy shortages are predicted in the recent book, The Long Emergency, by James Howard Kunstler. (See:www.rollingstone.com/politics/story/_/id/7203633 for an online condensation.) The author envisages not only grave social and political stresses, but even sporadic semi-anarchy. Probably he’s overly alarmed. But if such scenarios are even a longshot, governments would seek to forestall them by prohibiting or severely “sin-taxing” non-essential uses of energy sources. And, in conjunction with such a recognition of the severity of the energy crisis, there would be a general mind-shift against ALL “wasteful” items, not just petroleum derivatives, for two reasons: their guilty association with spendthrift attitudes, and their tendency to create more physical “waste” (garbage).
Disposable “convenience” plastic items like throw-away razors and CD “jewel cases” are examples. Throw-away razors would be replaced by the style of razor that preceded them: ones whose handle is permanent, and whose blade assembly alone is replaced. Pantyhose (aka “tights” in UK) are another example of a plastic item that wastes material for the sake of convenience: their wearer consumes five times more nylon per year than she would if wearing stockings—and the total amount thus wasted nationally and worldwide is enormous (as described below). This item would therefore be on regulators’ hit list.
Even prior to such officially sanctioned crusades, ecology-conscious individuals and groups might turn against pantyhose, so a substantial voluntary reversion to stockings isn’t unthinkable. Stockings would require some form of gartering—which would be giggled at by the general. In order to take the words out of their mouths, ecology could crown Lola-Lola as its official poster-girl. In the same antic spirit, early adopters could reply, to those who accused them of being throwbacks, “It’s hip to be square.”
Profligacy: Wearing pantyhose consumes five times more nylon, and produces five times more garbage (by weight) than wearing thigh-highs or regular stockings. Here’s how the numbers work out. A pair of stockings weighs .3 ounce; an average pair of pantyhose weighs four times as much, or 1.2 oz. (This is because the torso portion of pantyhose is double-thickness, and because half (?) the pantyhose sold are control-top types that are even thicker.) Also, a pair of pantyhose is discarded, on average, 25% sooner than a pair of stockings, because it is “done for” when the first leg gets a run. (I.e., with stockings the wearer just replaces the bad leg and goes on wearing the good one.) So a woman who wears a dozen pairs of pantyhose per year would need only 9 pairs of stockings to replace them. Putting this factor together with the greater weight of pantyhose, the bottom line is that a pantyhose-wearer consumes five times more nylon per year.
How much is that in terms of ounces? According to the book, The Average American, the average career woman buys 22 pairs of pantyhose per year; the average college woman buys 9. Let’s assume the average housewife also buys 9, and thus that the average woman (including all three categories) buys 15 pairs. 15 pairs of pantyhose weigh 18 ounces; their replacement, 11.25 pairs of stockings, weigh 3.375 oz.; the difference is 14.625 ounces per year. (The high-consumption career woman uses roughly 1.5 pounds more per year.) Over the course of a 60-year hose-wearing lifetime (from ages 18 to 78), the difference is thus 877.5 ozs., or roughly 55 pounds. That’s non-biodegradable, non-recyclable waste—and it’s totally unnecessary waste.
The above is slightly offset by the stocking-wearer’s need to consume a garter belt; but that weighs only two oz. and lasts about two or three (?) years, so it creates little waste. (And a new-design garter belt with a replaceable elastic back strap could be made that would last two or three times longer.) A girdle, let’s say, weighs 5 oz. and lasts 1.5 years; thus 10 oz. would be wasted over three years, which is less than one-quarter the weight it would save in pantyhose nylon (44 oz.). And, since 1/3 (?) of women already wear control briefs, which are in essence legless light- to medium-control girdles, a mass switch-over to stockings wouldn’t imply proportionate additional Lycra consumption.
Now let’s scale the figures up to the national level. According to the Hosiery Assn., roughly 340 million pairs of pantyhose were sold in the U.S. in 2001. Assuming about 3/4 of their weight would be saved (after deducting for extra undies) if stockings were worn instead, about 15 million pounds of nylon is wasted thereby. If we were in WW2, the government would prohibit pantyhose for this staggering wastefulness. Well, in a way were are in a struggle—an ecological struggle. We want to reduce needless consumption and garbage production. Pantyhose are a “modern convenience” that costs more than they’re worth.
(Incidentally, about 52 million pairs of stockings were sold, about 90% (I’d guess) of them “thigh-highs”—or “holds-ups” as they’re called in the UK. Also, about 193 million pairs of “knee-highs” (“pop-socks” in the UK) were sold.)
Penalization: The government could discourage consumption of pantyhose (and disposable razors, etc.) by sin-taxing them at $1 or $2 per pair, which would make stockings and thigh-highs more attractive economically. (At present, absurdly, stockings actually cost slightly more than pantyhose, even though they contain much less material and take less time to make. This is because they are low-volume items.)
Taxation of plastics has already begun, as described in Future Perfect (from the Institute for Social Inventions, London, 2002), pp. 165-66, in an item titled “A plastax on single-use shopping bags to reduce usage and waste.” It stated: “Ireland has introduced a tax of nine pence on single-use plastic shopping bags, payable by the shopper not the shop.... The Irish government expects to raise 100 million pounds annually from the tax.... To say that plastic bags are a problem is an understatement... The other two options are incineration (which is unpopular and polluting) and recycling (but only .5 percent of plastic bags are recycled at present). It could be the only way to have a larger effect, hitting the consumer where it hurts most: in the wallet, not the conscience.”
Pantyhose were available in the early 60s, and even in the 50s (for dancers and models), but cost three times as much as stockings. Result: virtually no one bought them. It wasn't until 1968, that fateful year, that their price became competitive and pantyhose “caught on.” This process might work in reverse. I.e., if pantyhose were 50% or 100% more expensive, stockings & hold-ups might “catch on” again.
Persuasion: There could be publicity about pantyhose’s wastefulness, which could be spread in both the mass media and in magazines and web sites sensitive to ecological concerns. (E.g., readers might re-post this article, or portions of it—permission is hereby granted.) In particular, the Environmental Protection Agency (and corresponding agencies outside the U.S.) could issue white papers deploring the wastefulness of pantyhose and urging consumers to avoid them.
Second, arguments could be made that go beyond the ecological and counteract pantyhose’s image of convenience and liberation. For example: “There’s no doubt that stockings plus garter belt take a little longer to put on and take off, but the amount of time is small—say twenty seconds per day. That’s not asking much to benefit the environment.”
Third, stockings could be attached to a currently unobjectionable garment: a control brief. Lyn Locke, at http://www.lynlocke.com/, already offers such an item, which provides only limited coverage and compression. Here’s how she describes it (in p. 8 of her March 2005 newsletter (athttp://www.lynlocke.com/download/newsletter_mar2005-lynlocke.pdf), which also contains an illustration):
“These full briefs are reminiscent of panties from the 60’s and 50’s. But they have some Lycra in them, and hug the body nicely. With the attached garters, you have no choice but to wear nylons with this garment. Introduce your wife or loved one to the girdle in this manner. Once she becomes comfortable in this, maybe she will be more receptive to firmer control garments. Maybe not. But it’s worth a try, right? I sell these black Vassarette briefs at a very reasonable price.”
Over-reaction?: Pointing out pantyhose’s negative points wouldn’t cause a general over-reaction against wearing “nylons” at all, because there would be only 20% more material saved by going bare-legged. What would more likely happen is what happened when ecologists condemned certain other wasteful practices, such as buying a Christmas tree every year, or wrapping presents in paper that was immediately discarded. Those who were sensitive to such arguments didn’t abandon trees and wrapping paper entirely, but switched to reusable replacements. An analogy: if the gov't were to sin-tax disposable razors, most men would switch to cartridge-razors. Few would be so swept-up in an anti-plastic mania that they'd start growing beards, especially if there were a good rationale for the tax.
Symbolism, Conformity, and Independence: Many women have an “eek!” feeling about wearing garters, but they should get over it. (Or wear thigh-highs, which—though less reliable—don’t require them.) I.e., garter-wearing is something women may associate with the 50’s, and thus with repression. But a truly independent woman doesn’t let herself be manipulated by images, but instead looks to the underlying reality. (If she relies on images and associations, she’d let Virginia Slims ads persuade her that cigarette-smoking is “liberated.”) Just because garters have an image of being an item of (needless) feminine frippery doesn’t mean that they actually are. (Some men wear garters to hold up their socks (or leggings if they play hockey)—they aren’t image-oriented; they focus on practicality.) It’s really pantyhose that is needless, and it’s really garters that are libratory, because:
- They reduce the amount of “stuff” (nylon) a wearer must buy.
- They can be more comfortable in the matter of temperature control. I.e., in summer a garter belt can be worn (one less layer of fabric above mid-thigh); in winter a long-leg panty-girdle (a thicker layer of fabric above mid-thigh).
- They’re more likely to fit better. It’s impossible for some women to find a brand of pantyhose that fit well. That’s because there are so many more “fit points” with pantyhose than with stockings. If pantyhose fit well in one place, they often fit badly in another.
- Stockings don’t trap heat and moisture, encouraging disease and odor. (It was in the late 60s that vaginal deodorants caught on, in step with the use of pantyhose.)
I used another “eek!” word: girdle. But what’s worse about it than the spandex bike shorts or compression shorts that many women wear? Except for the garters, they’re the same item. The most vehement opponents of girdles are women who’ve never worn one, all the while encased in jeans much tighter and more confining than any girdle. The objection to girdles is 90% symbolic. (And feminist Beatrice Faust, in a 1981 book, mentioned that wearing a girdle actually gave her a charge. See http://www.girdlezone.org/bfaust.htm. She also wrote, “Are women such sheep that we must follow fashion leaders? Are we so gutless or stupid that we cannot make independent choices?”)
There’s nothing brave or independent about mindlessly following the crowd and wearing pantyhose. Courage and freedom would be demonstrated by departing from the norm. I hope that once a few trend-setters blaze a trail, it will become a point of pride for women to “think different.”
“Link-Ups,” “Hook-Ons,” etc.: For us fans of non-vanilla undies, there is only one potential negative in this dream-scenario (aside from worldwide economic collapse): A little-known method of garterless stocking-support exists, and most women would probably prefer it if they had to wear stockings again. An initial version was put on the market in about 1970 by one of the major hosiery suppliers. (I used to have their promotional material, but I’ve misplaced it, so I can’t give the name of the company or its brand.) The stockings came with two small hooks (like the type seen on the shoulder straps of bras). They in turn connected to a girdle’s garter tabs, leaving only a small gap between the top of the stocking and the girdle’s hem. This product failed to catch on because:
- The placement of tabs varied from girdle to girdle, so that one or other of the attachment points was often mis-aligned.
- Proper stocking length was critical—there was no ability to roll over the welt of a stocking or adjust the length of a garter, and stockings of that era lacked the elasticity needed to compensate for inexact length.
Subsequently, in the late 90s I think, there was another hook-attachment design called Scantihose that was unsuccessful; its stockings attached to a belt with a strap, which wasn’t too sleek. Now, however, improved variations have been introduced, under various brand names. In the UK, there’s Pretty Polly’s Link-Ups (Googling will find links to ads, etc. User feedback on the StockingsHQ site was mixed. One user claimed attachment was less secure than a garter and the link was flimsy. But a better hook and loop design could fix that.) In Australia there’s a similar and more recent item, Ambra Hook-Ons. (For details see http://www.calectasia.com/Hosiery/Hook-Ons.htm.)
Because they employ elasticized stockings (probably more elasticized than the ordinary pair) exact length isn’t critical, and they can use only one attachment point (on Ambra’s Hook-Ons it’s midway between the front and side of the leg), avoiding alignment problems, and making attachment faster than gartering. (They’re sold with pair of elasticized panties with a loop in the correct position. It would be easy for manufacturers of control briefs to add a loop in that location—or for women to sew one onto their existing garments themselves.) If these products can be debugged, women are likely to prefer them, because they are less visible. I.e., they have:
- No garter bump;
- Only a ½ inch welt;
- A high attachment point (so they can’t be seen under miniskirts—except very rarely);
- Minuteness, making them less noticeable if accidentally exposed (they’re only 10% the size of a garter);
- Discreetness (no gleaming complex “hardware,” no Can-Can overtones), making them less “ignominious” if accidentally exposed. That kills 90% of their appeal to us fetishists—but women would no doubt mostly shout, “That’s not a bug, that’s a feature!”
Oh well, such items have at least one attractive attribute: wearers strike the charming and seductive poses of yore when doffing & donning their hosiery. They no longer awkwardly wiggle into their nylons (as with pantyhose), a procedure that has all the suave elegance of a footlocker tumbling down a flight of stairs.
PS: Why should today’s New Women worry about discreetness anyway? Isn’t that merely a Laudably Ladylike virtue? Wouldn’t it be more commendable to Let It All Hang Out? Why forgo the chance, by stylishly strumming their garter straps, to mimic and/or mock the gallus-snapping patriarchs of old? Theysurely had no bashfulness about their visible suspenders.
PPS: Just kidding—I think. Seriously speaking, women could easily avoid garter-display by wearing culotte-style (divided) skirts and/or pettipants (long-leg loose-around-the-leg panties that function like half-slips). They could continue to sit and recline in today’s liberated manner—i.e., without always being careful not to let their skirts ride up.
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